From beach days in Seaham, to historic castle stays and visits to two of the country’s best museums, Locomotion and Beamish, here’s how to plan a family holiday in Durham.
When I’m searching for family destinations in the UK, I am a little guilty of looking ‘down south’. Being based in the Home Counties, it’s easy to default to tried-and-tested options that are close by. Yet, every time I leave my little bubble, I’m in awe of what I discover and think ‘I really should do this more!’
Our recent trip up to Durham, in the northeast of England was one of these experiences. As any parent will know, holidays change a lot when you have little people around, but what I discovered in Durham was a range of great activities and beautiful accommodation, which had something for everyone.
As parents, we loved places like Seaham Hall, with its luxurious spa and fine-dining restaurant. But our son adored nearby Seaham Beach, with its colourful sea glass and rockpools.
Museums such as Locomotion (which is free) and Beamish offer so much for all generations. Plus, Durham has no shortage of natural beauty, including the Pennine Way, enchanting forests, serene rivers and epic waterfalls.
So, come with me as I share a little taster of what we got up to in this underrated region.
Things to do in Durham for families
Coming up, I’ll share the highlights from our family trip. If you’re looking for more ideas for your Durham itinerary, don’t miss my other travel guide here, which features popular spots including Raby Castle, The Bowes Museum and High Force Waterfall.
Visit Seaham Beach
It was my second time visiting this beach, and all I can say is, wow was it a different experience this time around! The last time (also in May) it was cold and blustery, while this time we had t-shirt weather, blue skies and warm sunshine!
Durham Heritage Coast runs from Hartlepool to Sunderland and has a great coast path you can follow. There’s some dramatic scenery running along this stretch of the North Sea, with limestone cliffs, rockpools and soft sand. We had a lovely morning looking for sea glass in amongst the pebbles.
Between 1850 and the 1920s, Seaham was home to the largest glass bottle works in Britain – the Londonderry Bottleworks. Back then, up to 20,000 hand-blown bottles were made every single day, from fizzy drink bottles to delicate perfume vials in all sorts of colours. The waste glass? It was simply tossed into the sea.
Fast forward a century or so, and the ocean has worked its magic, smoothing and shaping the fragments sparkling gems. Our two-year-old relished digging through the pebbles for colourful stones, just as much as we did! We couldn’t resist but take a few seaside souvenirs home!
After a morning on the beach, we enjoyed a casual lunch at The Lamp Room. This restaurant is perfect for families, with a varied menu of crowd-pleasing dishes, and a kids menu too. We also finished our Seaham experience with a few scoops from Creams of Seaham.
Learn about trains at Locomotion
Locomotion is the largest undercover collection of historic rail vehicles in Europe and is located in Shildon, the world’s first railway town. Honestly, this is such a brilliant family day out in Durham. Adults will love learning about the historic trains. Meanwhile, kids will love running around looking at them or taking part in interactive activities.
Across the two main buildings and outdoor area, you’ll see over 70 rail vehicles, including steam, diesel, and electric locomotives. They include the famous Locomotion No. 1, which was the first steam locomotive to carry passengers on a public railway. There are also examples of Stephenson’s Rocket. We loved seeing these in person!
Our son absolutely adored it here, and I know he’ll appreciate it even more as he gets older. It’s an amazing activity for school-age kids. As well as the museum exhibits (many of which have interactive elements) there’s a café and play area.
The museum is also playing a key role in this year’s S&DR200 festival – a 9-month celebration of the 200th anniversary of the first journey on the Stockton and Darlington Railway. This 26-mile journey between Shildon and Stockton via Darlington transformed rail travel and trade around the world.
Locomotion is free to enter, but I’d encourage you to donate in order to support the amazing work they do.
Go back in time at Beamish, The Living Museum of the North
From one brilliant museum to another, if you’re based in the north of England, you may already be aware of Beamish. As soon as we stepped through the entrance, I felt like I’d rolled back the clock. The open-air museum is vast, with several small towns and areas to explore. They span the 1820s, 1900s, 1940s and 1950s, and include a pit village, farm, town, funfair.
The thing I loved was how real it all feels. It sounds cliché, but it really is a place where history comes to life. You can see what school life was like in the 1900s, buy a bag of boiled sweets from a retro sweet shop, enjoy a ride on a vintage tram, see the animals in a 1940s farm, ride a vintage carousel and shop for 1950s TVs.
One of my favourite things about the Beamish experience was the number of live actors and skilled craftspeople dotted around the site. You really get to see first-hand how things worked in the olden days. With such a reliance on the internet now, I think it’s amazing we can still visit a place like Beamish Museum to see processes first-hand.
Keep reading for a unique place to stay, right within the Beamish Museum site too.
Wander through Bishop Auckland
Bishop Auckland is a historic market town, packed full of independent shops and lovely food options.
We just spent a couple of hours here, enjoying a picturesque walk around the perimeter of Auckland Palace, before having lunch. The palace is spectacular, with its beautiful architecture and landscaped gardens. It’s one the best-preserved Bishop’s palaces in the whole of Europe, and is currently at the heart of a big restoration project in the town.
For lunch, we enjoyed some plates of tasty tapas at El Castillo, next door to the town’s Spanish Gallery. While many of the dishes on the menu are things you’d expect to see in a tapas bar, I appreciated the restaurant’s dedication to using local ingredients. Some vegetables are sourced are the walled garden within Auckland Palace, and the fish and seafood are delivered from family-run fishmongers Hodgson’s in Hartlepool.
Beautiful walks in Durham
I’ve visited Durham on three separate occasions now, and been on pretty walks every single time. We had plans to visit the Bowless Visitor Centre on this trip and explore the North Pennines National Landscape and UNESCO Global Geopark. This area of Upper Teesdale looks specular, and with it being the 60th anniversary of the Pennine Way, it felt like the perfect option! But, sometimes travelling with little ones means you have to rearrange a little to fit their needs!
Instead, we set off towards Lumley Castle and went on a beautiful 6 km stroll around the river, forest and countryside. It was another sunshine-filled day, and the whole region was illuminated by gorgeous rays. The Great Lumley and Lumley Park Circular was challenging in parts, with some steep inclines in the forest near the castle. The rest was pretty easy. I adored the forest section, following the river, with the banks covered in pretty, and very highly-scented, wild garlic flowers.
In fact, we all adored this walk. Our toddler had the best seat in the house, inside the hiking backpack, enjoying the views and jabbering away about all the amazing things he could see!
Take a trip on the Prince Bishop River Cruiser
I’ve visited Durham city centre on three occasions now, and feel like I’ve got to know it pretty well. I’ve taken a guided tour of the 1,000-year-old cathedral and climbed up the tower for amazing views. The food scene is great in the city, and I’ve had some wonderfully memorable meals at places such as The Cellar Door. I’ve also enjoyed seeing the creativity of Fowlers Yard, where local makers showcase their skills. Plus, I’ve loved soaking up the peace and tranquillity of Durham Riverside Walk.
So, what to do this time, that might also appeal to families visiting Durham? Hop on a boat of course! We took an hour-long cruise on the Prince Bishop River Cruiser, which gives a scenic look at the city from the water. There’s a guided commentary throughout, which offers quirky insights into the city’s history. It’s an enjoyable activity for families young and old, and an alternative way to see the most famous sights.
Explore Durham Botanic Gardens
I seem to have reached an age where I’d rather go to gardens than nightclubs! If you’re the same, I’d recommend visiting Durham University Botanic Gardens. Spanning 10-hectares, it’s home to a beautiful mix of landscapes, plants, glasshouses and sculptures.
Our son loved seeing the giant sculptures, as well as the fish and creepy crawlies! Meanwhile, we were happy strolling through the tranquil setting, admiring the beautiful blossom in the trees and enjoying the peace within the city.
Durham isn’t a particularly hectic city, but it’s still lovely to have spots like this so close to its centre. The gardens offer free worksheets for children, with challenges and games too, making it a really engaging place to bring for school-age kids.
Where to stay in Durham for families
Over the course of our trip, we moved around a lot, which gave us a chance to experience several types of accommodation. From 5-star luxury, to Georgian charm and a magical castle, you’re guaranteed to fall in love with one of these spots.
Seaham Hall, Seaham
Seaham Hall is a five-star spa resort on Durham’s Heritage Coast. Dating back to 1791, the spectacular building has had several uses over the years, including being a military hospital in WW1, a secret bottling plant for Scotch whisky and a sanitorium, before being transformed into a hotel in 1985.
It’s got that grand country house feel, but it also has all the modern amenities for a comfortable stay. We checked into one of the hotel’s garden suites. Wow – what a room! We loved its eclectic and colourful furnishings, chic bathroom with rolltop bath, as well as the private garden with its very own hot tub and fire pit. It’s ideal for couples looking for a romantic break, but hey, our toddler loved it too!
We enjoyed a gastronomic dinner of small plates in The Dining Room, the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant. With dishes such as burrata, ceviche and roast duck breast, we felt like we’d hit the jackpot! Every mouthful was packed full of flavour. The setting was magical too, with fairy lights illuminating the olive trees.
The biggest selling point? Serenity Spa – one of the best spas I’ve ever visited in the UK. Yes, ever! There’s a lagoon-style swimming pool, steam, sauna and hydrotherapy experiences and a large outdoor area with Jacuzzis and beds. It was bliss!
So, what about kids? Well, our son felt very well taken care of! There are two slots a day when kids can use the spa’s swimming pool. He absolutely loved it in there. He also sat in a high chair enjoying a toddler fine-dining experience at dinner and breakfast, including baked beans, fluffy sourdough, hand cut chips and homemade ice cream!
Lumley Castle
Are you looking for accommodation brimming with character for your family trip to Durham? Look no further than Lumley Castle. There’s a real feeling of magic as you drive up to this 700-year-old wonder. Even more so, once you enter the ancient building, admiring the thick stone walls and wandering corridors that feel like they hold ancient secrets!
Our son was fascinated by the castle. He loved exploring the courtyard and roaming around the wonky staircases! He also tucked into one of the best-value kids menus I’ve seen in a while. Three courses, no less!
We checked into the King James Suite, one of the hotel’s best and largest rooms. Once a chapel, it boasts high arched ceilings, gothic doors and little enclaves for the bathroom, washroom and toilet. It also has a comically-tall four-poster bed. Yes, one of those beds with steps to get up onto it! I felt like an Elizabethan queen.
We loved how much character there was to every element of our stay at Lumley Castle. From cocktails in the historic courtyard, to our gourmet dinner in The Knight’s Restaurant and sleeping in that extraordinary bedroom, it’s one of the most memorable places we’ve stayed in England.
Drovers Rest, Beamish Museum
For another truly unique place to relax in Durham, how about an overnight stay in a historic building within Beamish Museum? The museum recently launched self-catered accommodation on site, offering an unforgettable stay in the heart of its 1820s area. Drover’s Rest and Potter’s Cottage are two beautifully restored Georgian buildings, full of character and charm
As we stepped through the door, it felt like we’d travelled back in time. The cottages are furnished with traditional pieces, yet thoughtfully equipped with all the modern comforts you’d expect (TV, a fully fitted kitchen, WiFI). We brought a travel cot for our little one and had a cosy stay in our quirky home-from-home.
Best of all, an overnight stay includes complimentary entry to the museum during opening hours, perfect for exploring this popular attraction at your own pace.
We had a very special family trip to Durham. Blessed with gorgeous sunshine, picturesque views and varied activities, it felt like the perfect family destination. If you’re looking for more recommendations for the region, take a look at the This is Durham website.
- For more inspiration for your trip, don’t miss my other guides:
- 4 Fun Days Out In Durham That Everyone Will Enjoy (featuring The Bowes Museum, Raby Castle and High Force Waterfall)
- A Tour Of 3 Historic English Cities: Visiting Durham, York And Lincoln From London